4月6日 下篇 偶遇帅哥,深夜求房
关键词: CASA
机场里布满了古巴旅游的广告,6个城市,6幅广告
Havana,Varadero,Trinidad,Holguin,Pinar del Roi,Cayo Coco
都是一副简单的图画,然后简单的一句welcome to XXX
取了行李,出了机场,由于来之前行程的突变,我没有预定上今晚的住房,打算当地找.机场里有个information,还有个travel agence,问了问,告诉我他们帮我叫TAXI是20CUC,可以代订酒店,不过居然告诉我,老城的酒店今晚都满了!!!有这么旺么?那我今晚住哪???Taxi我之前了解的正常价格是12-15CUC,agence的人说,机场外面就是这个价,于是我就出了机场,外面一排帮你叫Taxi的,居然都要25CUC!!!我无语了,出去转转,走到一处停车坪,看到有大巴,好不容易找到一个说英语的,告诉我这里的大巴都是去酒店的,我折回...看到一位帅哥在和拉客的侃价,听到他要去老城,本来我就是要去老城,那就一起,不就便宜了?砍了半天,他们死不降价,25CUC,没办法,我们上了车(我当时昏了,机场里面的agence不是只要20CUC么?)
在车上,我们聊了起来,他是法国人,在巴黎工作,这次是去牙买加找朋友玩,过境古巴,打算在havana玩2天,听说我没有订房后,他告诉我他订了Casa,说我和他一起去,该能找到床位,不然附近也应该能找到...
问题出现了.....
下车后,我们一人12,5CUC,可是我拿的是美金,司机居然不收,原来现在古巴都不通用美金了...法国帅哥Mathieu帮我付了...
这不是问题,问题是.......
下了Taxi,见到了古老的havana,一种独特的气质逼向你,Mathieu只叹"amazing'.我们找到了Mathieu预定的那家Casa,一个很和蔼的老人接待了我们,进了房间,还有她的姐姐,当我们坐下了,Mathieu说他订了一间房,得到的回答是--------不好意思,我们这里今天住满了!!!Mathieu急了,我明明预定了啊,怎么没房啊?两个老人说着西班牙语只摇头...稍微会几句英语的老奶奶说,我帮你们问问其他人吧,打了一通电话,得到的回答都是客满......Mathieu翻着le routard的Cuba,查着住宿电话,一个个打过去,得到的结果都是没有房,或者说着不懂的西班牙语,终于一个电话通了,英语回答,有两单间,25CUC一人,不过只有今晚,看来Mathieu还要解决明天的住房问题...
趁着美丽的夜色,慈祥的老奶奶帮我们送到了楼下,还指了路,这么深夜打扰她,还如此热情...路上遇见的市民都非常友好的和我们打招呼...我们迷路了,一家人非常友好的给我们指路,带到了住宿门口...
这是一家Convento,不知道怎么翻译,会西班牙的帮我翻译下吧,青年旅馆吧.名字Convento de Santa Clara.进去后,一位微笑的中年妇女接待了我们,由于语言不是很好,终于我们懂了,他们只有一间四人间,每人25CUC.没办法,先安顿下来再说...这里又不能刷卡,又不收美金,不能换汇,还好有Mathieu...
注:古巴大部分地方不能刷卡,而且刷卡还要收手续费,尽量机场欢好钱
这时,Mathieu说饿了,问她有没有什么吃的,她说只有三明治,说完,我们还要了啤酒,她给我们做起了三明治,就是现切几片面包,切西红柿,涂上橄榄油...她还切到了她的手,真是半夜麻烦她了,都快半夜0点了...吃完了才知道,原来三明治是白送的...真善良...
注:Casa,家庭旅馆,可以网上或者电话预定,但是通常有你订了没房的情况,屋主会帮你联系其他人的,所以请做好准备,当然在到达后找的casa,就不会有这个问题了.价格一般20CUC左右一晚.
我和Mathieu喝酒聊起了天,他居然27岁了,可是看起来才20岁,在巴黎上班,后来看了他名片才知道,是世界500强ing;游历了中东,俄罗斯,东南亚,印度...下一步计划去中国工作,环游中国,于是我送了他一本朋友做的中国法文旅游手册,还有随身唯一一个中国结...
PS:
尴尬出现:他不知道中国结,我不知道中国结的英文和法文是什么,该怎么解释,只好敷衍而过...
求助大家哦,下次可不能犯错了......
入夜,睡觉
贴张我们convento的照片,环境和位置都很好哦
附上地址和联系方式吧,电话或邮件预定
Convento de Santa Clara
地址 Calle Cuba 610
intre Sol y fuz(这一行看不清...)
Habana Vieja
电话 53-7/8413335
8415201
邮箱 reaca@cencrem.cult.cu
由于暂时找不到合适准确的哈瓦那中文介绍,就引用一段联合国教科文组织世界遗产对哈瓦那古城及防御设施的介绍.具体景点介绍和照片我就插在游记里.由于4月7日只在哈瓦那呆半天,最后两天才是正式哈瓦那游,所以就分步揭露哈瓦那的美...
Havana was founded in 1519 by the Spanish. By the 17th century, it had become one of the Caribbean's main centres for ship-building. Although it is today a sprawling metropolis of 2 million inhabitants, its old centre retains an interesting mix of Baroque and neoclassical monuments, and a homogeneous ensemble of private houses with arcades, balconies, wrought-iron gates and internal courtyards.
哈瓦那的'骗子'们说,哈瓦那的三个特点是:"Majito琅姆鸡尾酒,美女和雪茄",我觉得这是消遣式的生活吧...
其实哈瓦那还有更多:Salsa,Latin Jazz,老爷车,Melcon海岸,古堡,大教堂...
而对于我来说,哈瓦那烙在我心里的是:
哈瓦那的人...
哈瓦那的地标:Melcon岸边看老爷车穿过卡瓦尼亚高地圣卡洛斯城堡
哈瓦那大教堂,第一次让我从心里喜欢上一座教堂...
4月7日 上篇 哈瓦那一蔽
原以为是倒时差的一夜,居然却睡得很舒服,一大早就爬起来了,看到Mathieu还没有醒,于是轻轻的洗漱了一下,给他留张纸条,下楼了...
找到了接待处的Madame,问了下她如何换钱,由于偶不懂西班牙语,热心的她给我画了地图,解释了下,这样我就放心了,准备出门...
一位古巴妇女过来了,和Madame说了什么,原来她为我准备了早餐,虽然称不上丰富,但是比起欧洲常住的青年旅馆,确实好了很多.嘿嘿,牛奶咖啡,面包煎蛋,黄油蜂蜜...都是些很普通的东西,但是摆在桌上,就我一个人享用,还是别有一番滋味...
(换汇的地方有两种,一种银行BFI,一种换钱处CASAS DE CAMBIO;再次提示,尽量不要带美金,CUC叫Peso Convertible,CUP就叫Local peso吧)
去换钱的地方经过了老广场,Plaza Vieja
The Plaza Vieja has had an interesting history, falling from grace to bouncing back and becoming one of Havana's most vibrant gathering spots. Originally laid out in the mid 16th Century, Plaza Vieja was an important marketplace for the citizens of Havana. Due to some street construction in the 1950s, the plaza vanished from view and became an underground car park.
With the hard work of the citizens of Havana and the support of the government, the Plaza Vieja has regained its former glory. It now has beautifully restored buildings and arcades surrounding the central area where a small fountain from the late 18th Century stands.
由于我在此拍的照片删除了,所以就从网上截了一张
而我印象最深的,就是老广场去Plaza de San Francisco de Asis的那条小巷,特别是那家hotel的门口...传教士?
接 4月7日 上篇
穿过小巷,就到了St Dominigo广场(稍后介绍),换了钱,发现旁边就有一家邮局Corroes,兴奋的挑起明信片,可惜没有我中意的,不过发现了che的邮票,兴奋的买了七套邮票+信封......
切·格瓦拉 Che Guevara
埃內斯托·拉斐爾·格瓦拉·德·拉·塞爾納（西班牙語：Ernesto Rafael Guevara de la Serna，1928年6月14日—1967年10月9日），通常被稱做切·格瓦拉（西班牙語：Che Guevara），又譯為捷·古華拉。他是出生於阿根廷的馬克思主義革命者和古巴游擊隊領導人。格瓦拉於1959年參與了卡斯楚領導的古巴「七二六運動」，推翻了親美的巴蒂斯塔獨裁政權。在古巴新政府擔任了一些要職之後，格瓦拉於1965年離開古巴，在其它國家繼續策動共產革命。首先是剛果，然後是玻利維亞。在玻利維亞，他在一次由美國中央情報局策劃的軍事行動中被捕，並於1967年10月9日被玻利維亞軍隊殺害。死後，他成為了第三世界共產革命運動中的英雄和西方左翼運動的象徵。
特别感兴趣的就是这个邮筒,很可爱,信和明信片就往这里塞哦!!!
古巴的明信片,有一种比较有特色,就是浮雕式的卡通片,记得穷游里有MM提到过.至于邮资,信寄往欧美是0,75CUC,其他国家0,85CUC.明信片是0,45欧美,其他国家0,5.但是,奇怪的是,哈瓦那的要我的明信片贴0,75的邮资,Varadero的只要贴0,5的邮资,但是!Varadero的不接受哈瓦那的邮票,害得我又买了邮票.
但是,我最想不明白的是,怪哉,怪哉,为什么哈瓦那寄出的6张明信片都不盖邮戳啊,和新的一摸一样,还不如我自己带回来.......Varadero的还是有邮戳的......
St Dominigo广场有报亭有地图买,小的1CUC,大的4CUC,比机场便宜不少.古巴的地图和中国一样,不光简单,而且还要花钱买,不像欧洲都是免费的详细地图,对于我这种向来出发前不喜欢做太多准备,喜欢到了目的地拿张地图跟着感觉走的人,立马就买了份小地图...
本还担心Mathieu还要麻烦地找这晚的住宿(我下午就去Trinidad),一个好消息,今天晚上预定convento的一个双人房取消了,所以他就幸运的在原处安顿下来...
吃完早餐,看了时间,看来我还可以在Havana转2个多小时,再次出发...
一出门,遇见一个小孩,他问我们有没有硬币,我只好抱歉的说没有带.Mathieu奇怪的问我听懂他说的话了,其实我自己也很疑惑,他真的是收藏硬币么?他说的什么语言,我怎么懂了?还是心有灵犀啊......呵呵,以后记着出门带点人民币的硬币,呵呵,也可以做纪念的哦,就如我们老收藏其他国家硬币一样...
走了一会,就又到了老广场,Mathieu翻开他的Le Routard(好像是法国最好的旅游丛书吧,地铁里看到过广告)向我介绍起来,不过就说,这里就一个博物馆...
接着我们走到了St Francisco广场(Plaza de San Francisco de Asis)
This square,located close to the harbour is the end of the old 11km long auaduct,parts of which,can still be found in the city.The end point of the aquaduct is the Fuente de los Leone.This fountain is an exact copy of the lions fountain in the Alhambra in Granada,Spain.It is decorated with four lions.It used to be place where ships used to take in fresh water.
这个广场附近还有邮局,银行,船厂(以前哈瓦那的造船业很发达,但是如今古巴却没有一条去其他国家的航线),这个广场的重点就是St Francisco教堂,就是纪念第一个来古巴的传教士Francisco.门票2CUC.里面很值得一看哦.巴洛克,摩洛哥,拉丁风格结合一体,不过里面很多变成了博物馆,解说员就会说一句英文:English or Spainish?然后我们以为她会用英文解释,结果一连串的西班牙语出来了....反正我都不懂,不过还是能看懂一些,呵呵...一楼是老西班牙罗马那边的宗教遗物,二楼三楼居然是美国某艺术家的画展和雕像展.....后花园有个教堂模型,很好玩...
San Francisco修道院
Convento de San Francisco de Asis
One of the first monastic orders that arrived in Cuba was that of the Franciscans. Around 1570 they were already the protégées of one of the first notables of the town who, at the time of his decease, donated all his possessions with the aim of building a monastery for the order by the harbor of Havana. In 1574 alms began to be collected for the construction. In 1575 the building license was requested of the king and of the Royal Court of Santo Domingo. Finally, by 1584 the work was already advanced, so that we conclude that it was finished before the century was over.
At that time, the area where the convent was built reached to the edge of the bay, so the apse was practically over the water. In the second half of the 17th century a terrible hurricane wrecked the city and caused the loss of the tower, which had been built by the master architect Pedro Hernández of Santiago de Cuba. The façade of the church was also damaged.
In the coming years this work would undergo a lot of changes. At the beginning of the 18th century the main chapel was tore down to construct a vaulted transept. In 1730 the façade and the tower were enlarged. In 1738, thanks to the bishop of Havana Lazo de la Vega, the refurbishment of the temple was finished.
When the English took Havana, they used the church as headquarters. Once the island went back to Spanish control, the convent was condemned on the belief that it was impure.
The artistic conception guiding this building answered to the architectural taste of the time. It was mainly an imitation of Doric and Corinthian styles, though it also has elements of an early baroque. The church tower became the tallest in the city and at its top it had a stone sculpture of Saint Francis. The sculpture was destroyed during the 1846 hurricane. The furnishings and ornaments of both the church and convent were also quite remarkable.
In 1608 a chapel was annexed to the convent. This chapel marked the starting point for the Stations of the Cross on Good Friday that ended at the calvary in front of the Iglesia del Cristo. The last procession took place in 1807. The crosses were then removed from Amargura (Bitterness) Street leaving only the one at Mercaderes (Traders) Street. In 1841, by order of María Cristina de Borbón, wife of Fernando VII, the convent and the church were closed down and the altars destroyed.
随后,跟着Mathieu这个导游,偶们到了Plaza de Armas,这个美丽的广场.这里是个大的书市,平日里摆满了书架,附近还有个哈瓦那最大的礼品市场,可以好好选购回去送亲朋好友哦.不过可能是我们到达的那天是复活节前夜,广场上在做活动,很多学生有组织的在广场上跳舞表演,该是舞蹈竞赛,还是什么呢?
广场的中间是何 塞·马 蒂的雕像
何 塞·马 蒂 José Martí
何塞·马蒂于1853年出生在哈瓦那，父母都是西班牙人。从儿童时代起，他对不合理的事情、压迫和专制就表现出叛逆的精神；15岁青年何塞·马蒂就表现初衷。读大学时创办了革命报，并在其它报刊工作，写作并发表了许多炽热的爱国诗篇；也支援丛林里的游击战士。16岁时被捕并罚作苦役，后来又被流放到西班牙。在西班牙，他还为古巴的独立不懈地奔走呼吁，同反动、专制主义分子进行辩论，并于1873年写了“古巴的政治囚禁”，对殖民政府的罪行进行有力的揭露。1887年10月10日，何塞·马蒂在纽约向古巴人发表了非常明确、富有战斗精神的演说，从那时起他就投身到团结和组织古巴人,为古巴独立的最后战役做准备。1892年4月10日，宣告成立古巴革命党，何塞·马蒂当选代表，负责党的最高职务。1895年5月19日，西班牙军队袭击戈斯麦和马蒂在东方省多斯里奥斯的军营，古巴独立先驱何塞·马蒂在战斗中阵亡，他是古巴公认的英雄。
雕像的后面就是城市博物馆Museo de la Ciudad,里面有哥伦布的雕像,谁叫这个意大利人发现了这片神奇美洲大陆呢???
Mathieu借我的相机抓拍了广场上的一个小美女...
Plaza de Armas
The first known public square of Havana was located on the spot that, later on in the 16th century, was occupied by the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. To place it, they took an adjoining lot to the south where at the time there was some poor housing. Some acts from that period (between 1559 and 1577) consign that the square was large, clean and that it was known as Plaza de la Iglesia (Church Square) because it was next to the Parroquial Mayor (Main Parish Church).
Unlike what the neighbors expected of their plaza –of it being a place of amusement and social interaction– its vicinity to the Castillo de la Real Fuerza led Diego Quiñones, keeper of the fortress, to make it into a maneuver ground in 1584. From that time on the frequency of military exercises made the people call the square, Plaza de Armas (Parade Ground) as it came to be known.
In May, 1828 the Templete was opened to a side of the Plaza. Around that time the ground of the surrounding streets was leveled by the laying of the San Miguel’s Flagstones, in order to avoid the bothersome pooling of rainwater. In July, 1834 the Count of Villanueva unveiled a statue at the center of the plaza to honor the memory of the King Fernando VII. It was carved by the Spanish artist Antonio Sola.
In the second half of the 18th century, when the Field Marshal Felipe Fonsdeviela, Marquis of the Tower, took charge of the government, the Plaza de Armas experienced a change for the better. The marshal, worried by the lack of public promenades, street paving, decent government and town houses, and jailhouses, began the construction of a building that comprised three functions: chapter house, governor’s residence and jailhouse. So the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales came into existence, nowadays the Museo de la Ciudad (City Museum) and home to the City’s Historian Office. Next to it the Post Office (Palacio del Segundo Cabo, at present Cuban Institute of Books) was built in a slightly baroque style. The blueprints for this area were drawn by Antonio Fernández de Trebejos, native of Havana. In the coming years fountains, street lamps, stone benches and shrubs were added to the plaza. Chronicles of that time show the plaza as a charming, aristocratic place, where well-dressed men and women used to meet to socialize.
Over time, the plaza fell into decline. It wasn’t until 1935 that the prestigious architects Evelio Govantes and Félix Cabarrocas drafted projects that involved the recovery of the plaza as it could be seen on engravings of the time. So they gave back to the plaza the military appearance it had in 1841. In February 27, 1955 at the request of some Cubans, the statue of Fernando VII was replaced with one of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes by the Cuban artist Sergio López Mesa. Since 1923 the official name of the plaza is that of this Cuban patriot.
大教堂
Iglesia de la Catedral (Cathedral Church)
The Iglesia de la Catedral (Cathedral Church) is the result of a turbulent long historical process that started on the first half of the 17th century. As early as 1658 the license to build a college and its church was requested from the king, because the inhabitants of Havana were in need of a higher education institution, since they couldn’t always go to Mexico or Spain. After some disagreements among the town council, the Society of Jesus –that would be in charge of running the institution– and the king himself, the last, in April, 1727 ordered the Society’s headquarters to be built on the well known spot of San Ignacio.
In 1749 the Jesuits began to enlarge the temple and had almost finished the church when they were thrown off the Spanish possessions, so that the works were left unfinished. In 1777 the church was roofed and the Parroquial Mayor seat moved there due to the ruinous state in which its former seat at the Plaza de Armas was. In 1793 after the island was divided in dioceses, the church was made into a cathedral and the first bishop of Havana, José Felipe Tres Palacios, endowed the church with riches according to its new station. We owe this bishop the church’s façade we see today, with its peculiar uneven towers made by the architect Pedro Medina.
Afterwards, during the bishopric of Espada, who was an enlightened man, lots of alterations were made to the building. The bishop dispensed with the shrines and saints statues that he considered lacked taste and changed the old baroque shrines for new neoclassic ones. Espada sent for the Italian painter Giusseppe Perovani who worked on two of the frescos still remaining. When the painter passed away he was replaced in 1815 by the great French painter Jean B. Vermay.
In 1796 the remains of the Admiral Cristóbal Colón were moved to the cathedral church from the island of Santo Domingo where they rested as the Genovese sailor had wished. This was their resting place until December 12, 1898, when as the Spanish domination over Cuba ended they were taken to Spain.
楼主 
