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攀岩爱好者之家 欢迎...

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2009-1-8 15:01:27

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 15:55 编辑

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2009-1-8 15:01:41

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 15:56 编辑

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2009-1-8 15:01:52

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 15:56 编辑

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2009-1-8 15:02:45

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 15:52 编辑

                感觉这篇文章不错 转自青岛攀岩网 http://www.qdclimbing.com/


行为决定意识,呵呵,喜欢才去摸索

So, you've seen the videos: Tom Cruise pulling off crazy unropedstuff on massive cathedrals of rock in MI2. Stallone showing off hisbulk dangling on some razor-thin chunks of rock... You're stoked andwant to give it a try... But...
那么,如果你看过一下的电影片段:Tom Cruise徒手在巨大的耸立的MI2. Stallone石柱上攀爬,并将身体悬挂在巨石剃刀般边缘。。。你一定十分激动,很想一试身手。。。但是。。。
Why the hell would you want to pick up climbing anyway? If it's toimpress the chicks with those buffy pecs you'll be disapointed. There'slots of easier ways to work on those instead of groveling throughgruesome bloody crack climbs. You'll occasionally rip up your hands andgenerally scab various body parts. Occasionally you'll scare the witsout of you. So why do people climb anyway? Not for the hardman image ofpure force portrayed in the media.
然而该死的你为什么想要攀岩?如果是用那些(*&…吓唬胆小鬼,你会失望的。有许多更简单的方式攀岩,而不是挣扎在可怕的血淋淋的岩缝之类。有时你努力的伸出手来,疤上加疤;有时吓得你魂飞魄散。那么人们为什么还要攀岩。当然不是为了媒体塑造的那个纯力量的硬汉形象。
Climbing is not all about strength anyway. Many a strong man hasbeen humbled by the feminine graciousness and apparent ease of a womanmoving over rock. Climbing is all about balance, knowing your body andbeing able to reposition it in space. It's about creativity, learningto adapt to what the rock has to offer. It's a whole-body exercise andthough your upper body gets a fair share of grunt work, your legs andfeet are your most important instrument for upward motion. It's aboutconcentration and overcoming your fears for the void.
攀岩不只是需要力量。许多壮男在女性优雅,飘逸的岩上移动面前显得相形见绌。攀岩是一种平衡,了解你的身体,并能在空中调整它。攀岩是一种创造,使你学会适应各种不同的岩体。攀岩是全身的运动,尽管你的上肢承担了相当大一部分的工作,而你的腿和脚是向上运动最重要的工具。攀岩需要专注和克服你对高空的恐惧。
You don't need to be young or extremely fit to pick up climbing.Many people start later on in their life, and there are excellentclimbers of all ages. I personally know some climbers well over fiftythat still can compete with the young sharks.
攀岩你不需要年轻或特别匀称的身体。很多人很晚才开始攀岩,而攀岩的人群中各种年龄的人都有。我个人就熟知一些50多岁却任然能和年轻俊才一教高下的攀岩高手。
For me personally it's all about discovering the natural worldaround and within you. Climbing will bring you to lots of lovely placesand will definitely give you a unique perspective on the world belowyou. You'll learn a couple of things about yourself and the people youclimb with.
对于我个人而言,攀岩是去发现自己身边的自然世界。它带你到许多美丽的地方,使你以一种独一无二的视角看你身下的世界。你会从和你一起攀岩的人身上学到很多,也更了解自己。
Climbing is both an individualistic and social sport: when you're onthe rock you can only count on your skills to get to the top. If you dofall however, you'll have to trust your climbing partner with yourlife. Beyond question. No mistakes allowed. This often makes for verystrong bonds and relationships.
攀岩既是个人的运动也是社会的运动。在岩壁上往上爬的时候靠的是你的技巧。而当你脱落,你就将你的生命托付给了你的伙伴。毫无疑问,不能有错。这往往造就了牢固的伙伴关系。
Learning to climb is very much like learning to ride a bike or skidown a snowy slope. You'll never forget the basic moves, but will needyears of practise to perfect them.
攀岩就像骑单车和滑雪一样,基本的技巧永远不会忘,但是需要数年来完善你的技巧。
Climbing styles come in many flavors. The basic games include:bouldering, indoor climbing, free rock climbing, trad rock climbing,solo climbing aid climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing.
攀岩的方式兴趣使然。最基本的有抱石,室内攀岩,自由式攀岩(运动攀),传统攀,徒手攀,器械攀,攀冰和阿尔卑斯式攀岩。
We'll handle bouldering next week, indoor climbing and toproping inweek 3, basic free rock climbing in week 4 and advanced techniques suchas trad, aid and alpine climbing in week 5.
我们下周去抱石,第三周室内攀和顶绳攀,第四周自由攀和技术要求更高的如传统攀,器械攀和阿尔卑斯式攀岩在第五周。
This series of articles will pinpoint a couple of fundamentalprinciples but was never meant to replace proper instruction. I simplyhope to give you a taste of the sport and some guidelines to get youstarted. Make sure you learn from more experienced climbers or in aclimbing school. Trust me, you'll love it.
这一系列的文章将直指一系列的基础原则,但这不代表要替代那些恰如其分的方法。我只是希望让你一尝其中滋味,给想入门的你一些指引,确保你能从更有经验的攀岩家或是攀岩学校学到东西。相信我,你会爱上他的。
Bouldering addicts climb short jumbles of rock, often only a coupleof feet high. The key here is linking the moves: because of their shortheight bouldering problems tend to be fairly intense and technical.It's hundreds of feet of difficulty compressed into 5-10 moves. Unlessyou're climbing so-called highball problems you'll climb unroped andclose enought to the ground to be safe to jump off from. During thenineties there's been a renewal of interest for this game. Thousands ofbouldering areas have cropped up worldwide.
抱石爱好者攀爬的是各种各样乱七八糟的短线,通常只有几米高。这种攀爬的关键在于动作的连贯。因为高度的问题,所以抱石往往强度更大,更有技巧性。几百英尺的难度压缩到了只有5到10个移动。除了一种所谓“高球(原本指一种鸡尾酒,攀岩高手的描述为it’s a tall scaryboulder problem, usually a 16 - 30 foot topout. A little scary.....hasa little "pucker-factor" toit.一种高度通常在16到30英尺的抱石线路。有点恐怖,其中有一些“皱褶”难度。)”的攀爬方式外,抱石都不需要绳索,并尽量离地面近点,以确保跳下来时是安全的。上世纪90年代,曾今有过这种攀爬方式的复苏,在世界各地开辟出成千上万的抱石区域。
During the late eighties and early nineties climbing on plastic, akaindoor climbing became of fashion. Most competitions are on plasticnowadays. Indoor gyms are excellent places to learn rope handlingtechniques and to work on the basic moves. However, most of the diehardclimbers agree that there's nothing like natural rock.
在上世纪80年代末90年代初,在室内攀岩成为时尚。如今很多比赛都是在室内举行。室内场地是理想的学习绳结技巧和基本移动技巧的场所。然而,多数铁杆的攀岩者都认为没有什么可以和自然岩壁相提并论了。
Free Climbing is the art of climbing a rock without using yourequipment for upward motion. You can only use your arms, hands andother essential body parts to climb. The gear is used for protectiononly. This is where ethics come into play. A climb is said to beonsighted when a climber leads the climb for the first time withouthaving watched other climbers do it and reaching the end withoutfalling or pulling on gear. If you don't meet these criteria, you haveto start over from the ground up to complete the climb.
自由攀爬是指攀岩过程中没有使用器械用于上升的一种攀岩形式。你只能用手臂,手和其他身体部分来攀爬。而器械仅用于保护。这就是规则。被称为onsight的攀爬是指一个攀岩者在没有看过其他人爬同一线路的情况下首攀就登顶,并且没有脱落,没有抓器械。如果你的攀爬不符合这些要求,你就应该从地面重新开始攀爬。
In Trad Climbing, climbers use their own gear for protection whereasin free (aka sport) climbing pre-drilled bolts are clipped withcarabiners. Trad climbers use friends, chocks, stoppers and otherpassive and active gear instead. These are devices of different shapesyou can stick in cracks or holes for protection without damaging therock. This is called clean climbing and is the only acceptable way ofclimbing in some areas. Due to the technicity of this kind of climbingit is mostly reserved for advanced climbers.
传统攀时,攀岩者用他们自己的器械来保护自己,而自由攀(也叫运动攀)需要用快挂挂在预先打好的挂片上。相反,传统攀的攀岩者需要机械塞,岩塞以及其他被动和主动的器械。用这些不同形状的器械塞入裂缝和洞中以保护自己而不会破坏到岩壁。这种攀爬方式被称作干净的攀岩,在有些地区是唯一可以接受的攀岩方式。由于技术原因,这多数是对于高级攀岩者而言。
When Aid Climbing the above rules no longer apply. Because of thesheer difficulty of the rock pulling on gear is often the only way toget up. This kind of climbing involves staying on the rock for severaldays (Climbs called Big Walls.) and handling massive amounts of gear.It requires an extreme level of technical expertise and a certain sensefor logistics. You'll have to haul your supplies up the cliff inspecial haul bags and sleep on the rock in hammocks or portaledges. Foradventurous souls only.
谈到器械攀时,以上的规则不再适用了。由于岩壁的难度,使用器械成为上升的唯一办法。这种攀登也包括呆在岩壁上数天(即所谓的大岩壁攀爬),需要大量的器械。这种攀爬需要极高的技术水平和逻辑能力。你需要将供给拉上岩壁,用一种特殊的大包,并且睡在一种特制的吊床上。这仅是对有冒险精神的人而言的。
Solo Climbing is certainly the most dangerous game and reserved forthe truly skilled only. Since you're climbing without any kind ofprotection, falling is simply not an option. Most climbers do not climbunroped to satisfy their ego. Or at least, those who do don't lastlong. Solo climbing is all about knowing your own limits and trustingyour good judgement. Only a select few choose to climb unprotected andif they do it's a very conscious choice. Do not try this at home...
徒手攀(裸攀)是最危险的,而且只有真正的高手能做到。由于没有任何的保护,坠落就不再是一种可能。多数攀岩者不会为了实现自我而裸攀。或者至少,那样裸攀的人活不了太久(言下之意,都死了)。裸攀是对自己极限的熟知和对自己判断的充分信任。只有一些精挑细选的人才选择裸攀,而且他们这样做了必定是有意识的选择。不要在家尝试裸攀。。。
Ice Climbers use ice axes to move up frozen waterfalls. Lately mixedclimbing and drytooling has gained popularity. This involves climbingmixed faces of rock and ice requiring both excellent traditional rockclimbing and technical ice climbing skills.
攀冰是用冰镐在冰瀑上攀爬的运动。而后融合了冰岩混合,并由此流行起来。冰岩混合要求有出色的传统攀和技术攀冰的技巧。
Finally there's Mountain Climbing and the alpine climbing games.This is where important natural elements come into play. Mountainclimbing involves living on ice covered slopes for several days at themercy of the weather, avalanches and more. A fundamental knowledge ofthe alpine environment and very advanced technical skills are required.As much adventure as sport, climbers face the inherent dangers becauseof the beauty of the places they climb in and the pure physical andemotional challenge in these climbs.
最后介绍的是登山运动和阿尔卑斯攀登。这其中自然元素发挥会作用。登山包含在恶劣气候摆布下在雪坡上生存数天。这需要对高山环境了解的基础知识和更高级的技巧。像其他冒险运动一样,攀登者为了他们要攀登的山的美景和纯粹的生理和心理的挑战,要面对潜在的危险。
For all of these advanced types of climbing proper instruction isfundamental. Go find a local climbing club or school and learn fromthem. Good instruction will probably save your life some day. I hope Iraised your appetite with this short introduction. Next week I'll getyou started on your very first climbs.
对于以上这些类型的攀爬,正确的指引是必须的。去找一家攀岩俱乐部或学校,在那里学习。正确的方法有可能会在某天救你一命。我希望这简单的介绍能提起你的胃口。下星期我会带你开始你的处女攀。
       
2009-1-8 15:03:01

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 15:53 编辑

让攀岩实力进步的秘诀

1.用"心"在爬           攀岩像下棋,重’布局’,即体力的配置,如何省力、休息,必须全神贯注,不能仅看眼前。 
        2.用"脚"在爬 
          协调性是省力的关键,倘若脚能做出最平衡的姿势,便能帮助手省力。而脚的功夫有两点,一是柔软度,二是不同岩点的采法。这两项训练与手力量之训练同等重要。 
        3.先动脚,再动手 
          攀岩时至少有2/3的时间与注意力须花在脚的布置上,移动时先选好脚点,再抬头把手放到定点。看手时便得思考下步动作,脚应该如何放。 
        4.正三角形原理 
          平衡,即让你身体的三点尽量维持在正三角形的姿势。这点必须将自己冥想成岩壁底下的观众,以宏观的角度来看自己手脚的移动。 
        5.针对缺点训练 
          攀岩想进步,绝非秉持着自身的优点,而是先将缺点改进,再尽量发挥自己的长处。 
        6.有效率的训练 
          训练时须用心、用脑去安排,了解自己的体能状况,重质不重量,且有适度的休息。记得攀岩不是在拼业绩! 
        7.自信 
         自信是省力的关键,因为了解自己的体能状况,便能以最适度的力量去抓把点,当然也不会过于紧张。但自信并非自负,爬岩时须谨慎,不可过于高估自己的实力。 
        8.多看书 
          攀岩如同一般运动,运动生理学、心理学…皆十分重要,唯有了解自己的身心状况,才能爬得好。由于每个人优缺点不同,必须了解自己,排出适合个人状况的训练,训练才会有效率。 
        9.自我检讨与鼓励 
          攀岩不可像去补习班补习,抄了一大堆笔记,结果回家倒头就睡。攀完岩后须花时间自我检讨,找出漏洞,思考改进之道。当然也须学会自我鼓励,保持对攀岩的热情。 
        10.比赛 
          若能明了上述原则,便会发现其实攀岩是项与自己的挑战,当然比赛亦此。比赛是将自己最好的一面呈现出来,是表演而非竞争,所以无须紧张、更不用有太大的得失心。
2009-1-8 15:03:16

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新手该怎么提高指力?

本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-9 15:33 编辑

Pull-ups, and chin-ups on door frames. Something fun while walking to the kitchen for a beer. HAHAHAH. :lol:
在门框上做引体向上(难度大点的下颚过门框)。这种练习可以在去厨房取啤酒时顺便做几组,呵呵。


Abdominal training is a must. Lots of crunchs. Crunches with a twisting motion (to hit obliques) are excellent.
腹部训练是必须的。大量仰卧起坐类型的练习。做仰卧起坐时加上转体动作更好。

(from a bench or off of dip bars) are great for working tricep and chest in a mantling motion.
手臂的推拉练习,可以增强三头肌和胸肌的力量。

Actually, your finger cease to grip 'cause your forearms get reallytired... The only remedy I found was to keep climbing. Your forearmsAND your fingers will get stronger over time. Besides, if you climb alot, doing specific workouts on top of that might just over-strain yourmuscles.
事实上,你的手指抓不住了是因为你的前臂真的很累了。唯一可以补救的,我想是一直坚持去爬。一段时间后你的前臂和你的手指会变得更强壮。而且,如果你爬的很多了,而你却在最累的时候加上几组特别安排的力量练习,那样会拉伤你的肌肉。

Thebest remedy is to just keep climbing. Do it for 2 months or 3 months.After a period of time u will get stronger in the fingers. But u wontsee it. But other pple can tell that u grew stronger. Dun try thefinger boards cause your fingers are not up to that strengthlevel capable of supporting your whole weight yet.If u find climbingstill a bit too hard for ur fingers then i suggest u train on urtechniques. Dont get discourage if u cant climb well. It part andparcel of climbing.
最好的方式就是不断的去爬。坚持爬一两个月,你的手指就会变得更强壮。但是,你看不到这种变化。其他人会告诉你,你变强了。不要去尝试用指力板,因为你的手指还没有足够的力量支撑你的身体。如果你发现攀爬对于你的手指太难,我建议你加强你的技巧的训练。如果你爬得不好,不要泄气。这是攀岩的一部分。

Keep climbing and always, i mean always..climb. Anyways, what you can do is get one of those hand gripper thingyand use them daily. It helps building your finger strength.
坚持爬,一直,我说的是一直,攀岩。你可以做的是找个握力器之类的,天天练。这对手指力量有帮助。

Finger strength will come in time ... be patient. As yourfingers get stronger through climbing, so will your confidence andtechnique. Don’t push your training to a point where your damage yourfingers. Like all things in life that are worth having, it takes time to acquire.
手指的力量会随着时间而增长的,要有耐心。在攀岩中你手指力量的增长也会带来自信和技术的增长。不要揠苗助长而伤了你的手指。就像生活中值得拥有的东西一样,它是需要时间来获取的。

Yup, lots of intense climbing combined with strengthtraining may not be a good combo. I spent a 2 months doing this and Ijust couldnt keep it up. After giving up the weight training I became astronger climber, without a doubt. Just stick with some good olbouldering, thatll get ya in shape for climbin.
是的,许多带有力量训练的大强度攀岩不一定就是好的方式。我花了2个月这样做,结果坚持不了。当我放弃了力量训练,我却成了更强壮的攀岩者。坚持好的抱石方法,那会使你很快进入状态。

One thing to keep in mind is that, when you are just getting started, strength is only part of the problem. Your hands may not just be giving out because of strength, you may very well be over gripping holds and under utilizing your legs and using poor body position.
当你开始时,要记住力量只是你遇到的问题的一部分。你的手爬不动了,不只是因为你的力量。很好的利用你的脚和身体,你一样可以抓牢你要抓的点。

the other posters recommended, keep climbing. Not only will tendon strength increase, your technique will also improve, giving you more mileage from what strength you have.
坚持攀岩。力量和技巧是互相促进的,力量的增长促进了技术的提高;而反过来技术的提高又会是你在原有的力量基础上爬得更好。

Eliteclimbers do use sport specific training (campus boards, etc.) but,trying to rush things, especially when you are just starting out, canlead to injury, which will set you way back.
高手都会采取一些特殊的训练方式如campus board,但是不要过于求成心切,特别是你刚开始的时候就这样做,会导致受伤,而使你倒退。
2009-1-8 15:03:29

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 16:16 编辑

多占了几层楼
又改了几张照片
Voyage en Chine 230.jpg Voyage en Chine 231.jpg Voyage en Chine 241.jpg Voyage en Chine 244.jpg Voyage en Chine 245.jpg Voyage en Chine 247.jpg
2009-1-8 15:03:45

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-8 16:18 编辑

原谅最后一张 Voyage en Chine 254.jpg Voyage en Chine 249.jpg Voyage en Chine 260.jpg
2009-1-8 15:03:58

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-9 15:39 编辑

自己的沙发
2009-1-8 15:04:11

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本帖最后由 哈比兰 于 2009-1-9 15:38 编辑

知道喜欢攀岩的人不多
但也不至于一个也没有吧
心凉了
一个回帖都没有
2009-1-8 15:04:29

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攀岩很酷 很刺激  我支持一下!
2009-1-10 23:04:59

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攀岩确实不错,不过现在这个季节不适合
2009-1-11 00:24:52

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攀岩很酷 很刺激  我支持一下!
香榭丽舍 发表于 2009-1-10 23:04


谢谢 第一个回帖
2009-1-11 21:27:18

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攀岩确实不错,不过现在这个季节不适合
小P 发表于 2009-1-11 00:24


谢谢斑竹捧场
这个季节一般在室内玩
2009-1-11 21:27:50

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