The Tour du Mont Blanc is a classic long distance walk in the Alps. Typically taking 7 to 11 days covering a distance of over 167km including 8000m of ascent. The route takes you around the highest mountain massif in western Europe over high passes giving amazing views of the towns, glaciers and mountains as well as passing through alpine valleys, towns and villages giving a feel for local life.
It can undertaken by all types of walkers from hardcore backpackers carrying tents and their worldly possessions to people staying in high class hotels being ferried out daily to walk a section at a time. However it should be remembered that the walk takes place in mountains so you'll need to be physically capable of doing 1000m of ascent virtually everyday, able to deal with quickly changing weather conditions and able to navigate in poor visibility.
If you don't think you can take the challenge on your own there are plenty of good walking companies who will supply all you need.
************Route Overview**********
The route description here follows the classic 11 day itinerary. Some of the days can be run together to give a shorter trip. The table below shows both the classic version and an 8 day version of the route.
The actual route varies from guide book to guide book. Where there is a possible variation some will have one route as the diversion while others will have the other route. The route described on this site may differ from that in a particular guide book although this will mainly be in the choice of actual and variant for a days walk.
The itinerary should be taken as a guide and some days it might be necessary to stop early or do a longer day to reach suitable accommodation.
11 Day 8 Day From To Distance Ascent Descent
1 1 Les Houches Les Contamines (16km) 890m 730m
2 2 Les Contamines Les Chapieux (19km) 1300m 930m
3 3 Les Chapieux Rifugio Elisabetta (14km) 1000m 400m
4 Rifugio Elisabetta Courmayeur (16km) 490m 1400m
5 4 Courmayeur Rifugio Bonatti (14km) 1600m 680m
6 5 Rifugio Bonatti La Fouly (20km) 880m 1420m
7 La Fouly Champex (15km) 430m 575m
8 6 Champex Trient (15km) 1185m 1385m
9 7 Trient Tre le Champ (13km) 960m 830m
10 8 Tre le Champ Le Flegere (9km) 790m 330m
11 Le Flegere Les Houches (16km) 770m 1615m
The normal starting point is at the Teleferique Bellevue in Les Houches.
Another popular option is to start from Chamonix. From here you can either head straight up to Bellachat or walk up the valley and take the the Teleferique de la Flegere to Flegere.
Chamonix
Chamonix is not actually on the route but most people end up here at the beginning or end of their trip as it is the largest and most well known town in the valley. There is a huge array of accommodation, outdoor shops and restaurants so it is a good place to kit up before heading out, or for relaxing after a trip.
For camping the Camping Les Arollas at Le Cry near the Teleferique du Plan de l'Alguille is a popular, although often busy site.
############ Day 1 Les Houches to Les Contamines
In Les Houches there is a camp site down the road opposite the Teleferique Bellevue
From the starting point at Teleferique Bellevue the first sign post is along the road to the left. The route heads up to the Col de Vosa (1653m) via roads and tracks. The Col de Vosa can come as a bit of a shock with a tramway bringing numerous day trippers. There are various accommodation and refreshment options here.
The route crosses the tramway and descends past the Refuge du Fiox. Then leads through Bionnassey and via a track to Le Champel, La Villette and La Gruvaz. The route follows the river in the valley to Les Contamines. Here you will find a variety of shops and a supermarket. To find the campsite head out of town along the TMB.
Day 1 Variation Les Houches to Les Contamines
Follow the normal route to Col de Vosa cross the tram way and follow it up the hill towards Chalet de l Are. The path goes off to the left through a forest. It contours around and the Glacier de Bionnassay comes into view. Crossing a rope bridge below the glacier the route climbs up to the Col de Tricot (2120m).
The route descends to the small hamlet where you'll find the Chalets de Miage before climbing once more to Sous le Truc (1818m). Passing the Chalets du Truc the route now heads down hill through a forest to reach Les Contamines.
############Day 2 Les Contamines to Les Chapieux Leaving Les Contamines the path follows the river upstream past the campsite about 30 minutes out of town. Just after Notre Dame de la Gorge the track starts to climb to reach the Chalet de Nant Borrant.
About 10 minutes after the refuge there is a free TMB campsite with composting toilet and water can be obtained from the stream running into the river.
The path continues up the valley to Chalet de la Balme (1706m) where there is another free TMB site. The path then continues to climb to reach the Col du Bonhomme (2329m). Contouring around the hill the Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2433m) comes into view. The path heads down steeply at times to the left of the Refuge to reach Les Chapieux. There is a large free campsite and the Auberge de la Nova. There is a small shop selling cheese and bread.
Day 2 Variation Les Contamines to Les Chapieux
Follow the normal route to just before the Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme take the path on the left to the Col des Fours (2665m) the path now continues on to La Ville des Glaciers bypassing Les Chapieux. The next accommodation option is up the valley at Refuge des Mottes. Note there is no camping close to the refuge. #############Day 3 Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta Taking the road through the village you climb up through the narrow valley to reach la Ville des Glaciers where Beaufort cheese is made. From here you have good views of Glacier des Glaciers at the head of the valley. Shortly after the village the route takes a track on the right leading up the valley to Refuge des Mottes. The path now starts to climb steadily up to the Col de Siegne (2516m).
Crossing the Col the route gives impressive views down the Vailon de la Lex Blanche and the south side of the Mont Blanc Massif. The route heads down the valley to reach Rifugio Elisabetta (camping available) which is tucked up on the left of the path beside the Glacier de la Lee Blanche.
This is a fairly short day and for the fitter walker can be run into the next day.
#############Day 4 Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur
Leaving Rifugio Elisabetta the path continues down the valley beside some lakes created by the retreating glacier and the valley being blocked by the moraine of the glacier do Miage. Opposite Glacier du Miage take the right turn up the side of Val Veny.
The route then contours along giving excellent views of the glaciers and mountains on the south side of Mont Blanc to reach the main ski area servicing Courmayeur. Here you will find the Refugio Masion Vielle (1956m). For campers this is probably the best place to stop as the only camping in Courmayer is off the TMB route in the Val Veny.
To reach Courmayeur take the route down to the right of the refugio. This will bring you into Courmayeur via the village of Dolonne. Courmayeur is a large expensive ski town and can be a bit of a shock after a few days in the hills. It is a good place to stock up for the next few days.
Hotels here are expensive and the nearest camping is at Mont Bianco La Sogente in Val Veni.
#############Day 5 Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti The TMB is picked up on the road in front of the church, walking up the road the route passes through Villair. Here the road turns into a track and then a path which climbs steeply through woodland bringing you to the Rifugio Bertone (1989m) which allows camping. (On this part of the route some of the signs seem to have been moved or removed). The route continues up along the Mont de la Saxe with great views back up to Col du Seine.
The path continues upwards with a final short steep climb to reach Tete Bernadra (2534m) and then onto Tete de la Tronche (2584m). Dropping down from the ridge to the Col Sapin (2435m) the route traverses along the edge of the mountain before a final climb brings you over the Pas entre deux Sauts to the Vallon de Malara.
Descending the valley brings you to Rifugio Bonatti. There is no camping here although it is possible but probably not legal to camp behind some ruined buildings just before reaching the Rifugio Bonatti. The better option is to continue on to the Hotellerie at Arnuva where camping is allowed.
Day 5 Variant Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti
Begin as for the normal route passing up through Villair. Instead of taking the path up to Rifugio Bertone stay on the track which leads you through the Val Sapin to reach Chapy. The path heads of to the left follow this up to reach the Curru the path now continues up to reach the Col Sapin where you join the normal route again.
###############Day 6 Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly
Leaving the Rifugio the path drops down through woods to the road in the valley floor. Follow the road to the valley head to Arnuva where there is a Hotellerie which allows camping. Here you'll find the path climbs up and along to reach the Rifugio Elenae (2026m) with good views across to the Glacier de PredeBar.
The route now climbs steeply to reach the Col du Ferret (2537m). Crossing the col you are now in Switzerland. The path descends gradually down to eventually reach a small Gite which may offer accommodation. From here the route continues on a track down to reach the road.
The last section of the track consists of several switch backs and there are paths that allow the corners to be cut. Follow the road down to Ferret where there is a path that takes you off the road on the left and continues to La Fouly.
At la Fouly there is a large campsite and accommodation, in the town there is also a small super market and outdoor shop.
################Day 7 La Fouly to Champex
The route goes through the campsite and follows along the river before crossing over it at Praz de Fort and continuing down the valley through les Arches to reach Issert. Here the route crosses over the river again. Champex can be seen on the mountain side above. The path climbs steadily through woodland to reach Champex with its picturesque lake.
There is a good campsite Camping Rocailles which can be found by keeping on through the main street. Other accommodation options include Gite en Plein Air and Chalet du Club Alpin Suisse.
Food supplies can be restocked in the town.
#############Day 8 Champex to Trient
Heading up out of town past the campsite the route passes under the chair lift and heads through woods along the side of a stream supplying water to the town. You will shortly reach the Relais d'Arpette which has accommodation and camping. The path now heads up, gently at first but becoming steeper and rougher to eventually become a boulder scramble to reach the Fernetra d' Arpetta (2665m).
Although considerably harder than the variant the views on this section make up for the extra effort. It should be noted that this pass can have snow all year and navigation especially in poor visibility through the boulder field can be difficult especially in poor visibility.
The path then descends steeply at first beside the Glacier du Trient before levelling off as it heads down the valley to reach the Chalet du Glacier which serves refreshments. Take the path that crosses the river and follow the road down to Le Peuty
For accommodation there is a basic camping area with a toilet and a basic refuge at Le Peuty. Make yourself comfortable and someone will come along in the evening to collect payment. There are other accommodation options in Trient itself which is a bit further down the valley.
Day 8 Variant Champex to Trient
Follow the main road out of town past the camp site and the chair lift continuing along to reach Champex d'en Bas, then head left on to a track which then turns into a path, after a gentle start it climbs to reach an altitude of 2049m before starting a gentle ascent to the Col de Forclaz.
You can either stay here at the Refuge Hotel de la Forcaz, the Camping Aprille or continue on down to Le Peuty and Trient.
###############Day 9 Trient to Tre le Champ
From Le Peuty take the track away from the campsite. This turns into a path which winds steeply up through woods giving good views back down the valley, on leaving the woods the path becomes more gentle and the Refuge du Col de Balme comes into view set perfectly in the centre of the Col de Balme (2191m).
Upon reaching the col you once more have a view of the chamonix valley and across the border from Switzerland back into France. The route turns right through the ski resort to the Col des Possettes (1997m) and up to the Aiguillette des Posettes (2201m). It then follows the ridge line to the long descent down to Tre LeChamp.
There is not much accommodation so head down to Argentiere where there are various hotels a large supermarket and restaurants. The is a campsite just south of the town, although a better option which is less of a detour is the camp site at Les Frasserands.
Day 9 Varient Trient to Tre le Champ
This is not the most scenic route but if you are feeling tired it is an easier option. The variant is as per the normal route to the Col de Balme (2191m) where you take the route straight down through the ski slopes to Le Tour where you follow the road down to Montroc before heading up to Tre le Champ.
##############Day 10 Tre le Champ to La Flegere
From Tre le Champ the ascent is steep and in sections fixed ladders are in place to help over a section of rock.
The path leads to the Grand Balcon Sud, a classic route in its own right the downside being it may be very busy. Eventually a cairn is reached, the route to La Flegere heads straight on, to the right the route takes you up to Lac Blanc (2352m) which is worth a visit if the weather is good although if its a sunny day it will be over run with day trippers.
Camping is not allowed in this area although between sunset and sunrise discrete bivouacking is possible.
Chamois and Ibex are found in this area, are fairly tame and seem to like posing for photos. The path continues along until it reaches La Flegere. Here there is the Chalet de la Flegere (1877m) but if its busy you can take the cable car down into the valley to find accommodation. This is a good reason to start the TMB from here.
#################Day 11 La Flegeren to Les Houches
The final day gives you amazing views across the valley to mount Blanc and up the Mer De Glace. The route is a continuation along the Grand Balcon Sud contouring a long the side of the hill until reaching Planpraz. Here the route heads up to the Col du Brevent (2368m) where there is a big cairn.
The route heads left over a ridge and then along a section of ladders take you over some rocks. Here you join a rough vehicle track, turn right and head up to reach the Telefrique at LeBrevent (2525m).
The path heads off towards Bellachat, here there is the small Refuge de Bellachat with magnificent views across to Mont Blanc.
There is a route down to Chamonix here but the main route heads right to Les Houches. It starts steeply but soon becomes more gentle as it descends through pine forests behind the Merlet Animal Park to the road, cross the valley floor into Les Houches and the end of the Tour du Mont Blanc
Planning When to go
The route is possible between June and September. In June the high passes may still have snow on the ground and some of the refuges and camp sites may not be open although the route will be quieter at this time of year.
July and August are the busiest months on the route and it would be worth booking refuges as this is the main time organised groups run trips. The other down side is that the weather can be extremely hot especially on the long ascents, so early starts might be needed.
Early September the paths are quieter and the weather is still fairly good, after the middle of the month campsites and refuges start to close for the winter.
Money
Most of the large towns will have banks and cash points so getting money is straightforward. Before heading into the hills make sure you have enough to cover accommodation as the refuges require mainly cash payments.
The Euro is the currency in France and Italy and the Swiss Franc the currency in Switzerland. Fortunately it is possible to pay for goods in Euros in most areas the route takes you in Switzerland.
Navigation
Navigation on the TMB is fairly straight forward, routes are generally marked by sign posts or markers painted on rocks. These are red and white in France and yellow diamonds in Italy and Switzerland. However keeping track of your position and knowing how to use a map and compass are essential to your safety.
Guide Books
---Cicerone - Tour du Mont Blanc
This is probably the best and most used guide book to the tour it gives details of the route in both directions.
---Lonely Planet - Walking the Alps
While not as detailed as the Cicerone offering, it gives more than enough detail to plan and guide you around the TMB. It also gives details of other walks all over the Alps and so offers good value for money. The only criticism is that you get the impression the author hasn't walked certain sections and would often sooner take public transport. Ignore what they say even the few short sections of road you end up on are picturesque and worth walking.
Maps
--Rando - Pays du Monte Blanc A1 Scale 1:50 000
This is probably the best map and shows the entire route at 1: 50000 scale.
--Libris - Monte Blanc Scale 1:6000
This map also shows the entire route but at 1:60 000.
--IGN - Maps 3530ET, 3531ET, 3630OT Scale 1:25 000 and IGC No107 Scale 1:25 000
Combination of the above maps show the route at 1: 25 000 scale.
Route Planning
The following table should help with route planning, accommodation shown here should be used as a guide only and is not a recommendation. There are a lot more options available in most areas, the tourist web site for Les Houche gives a downloadable pdf of most of the accommodation on the route.
Over Night at Refuge / Hotel Camping Food Shop
Les Houches Hotel Les Campanules
T : 04 50 54 42 28 hotel-campanules@wanadoo.fr Campsite in town Super Market
Les Contamines Refuge du CA
T : 04 50 47 00 88
Campsite on route out of town Super Market
Les Chapieux Auberge de la Nova
T : 04 79 89 07 15 lanova@wanadoo.fr Free Campsite Shop (Bread and Cheese)
Rifugio Elisabetta Rifugio Elisabetta
T : 01 65 84 40 80 rifugioelisabella@alice.it Available at refuge None
Courmayeur Maison Vieille
0165 80 93 99 info@maisonvieille.com Either at Refugio Masion Vielle or Mont Bianco La Sogente in Val Veni Supermarket
Rifugio Bonatti Rifugio Bonatti
T : 0165 86 90 55 info@rifugiobonatti.it No None
La Fouly Hotel Edelweiss
T : 027 783 26 21 info@lafouly.ch Campsite in town Supermarket
Champex Au club Alpin
T/Fax : 027 783 11 61 clubalpin@netplus.ch Campsite in town Supermarket
Trient Refuge du Peuty in Le Peuty
T : 027 722 09 38 Campsite in Le Peuty None
Tre le Champ Gite La Boerne
04 50 54 05 14 Campsite in Les Frasserands or Argentiere Supermarket in Argentiere
Le Flegere Refuge Le Flegere
T/fax : 04 50 55 85 88 bellay.catherine@wanadoo.fr No None
Refuges
The route has plenty of refuges most offering refreshments during the day and half board accommodation at night. The size of the refuges and level of comfort vary but will generally be clean and a place to relax after a good days walk. In the peak season it might be necessary to book ahead as they often fill up, especially if there are walking groups booked in. The main advantage of using refuges is that you don't need to carry much weight. The downside is that if you book ahead your schedule is not flexible so you can't adjust for weather or to your fitness.
Most will let you either stay with or without food which is usually half board and some will supply simple packed lunches. Some may have showers but water is often restricted due to limited resources so in some you may just get a cold water wash.
The accommodation is usually dormitory style although you don't need a sleeping bag a sheet sleeping bag is sometimes required. All other bedding will be supplied. If you are a light sleeper then you may need ear plugs.
Etiquette
When you arrive check in with the warden if you can't find one register yourself in the log book.
Boots should not be worn in huts usually there is a boot store by the entrance. The hut will often supply slippers but you may prefer to carry a pair of your own or use flip flops.
You are usually expected to pay before you go to bed.
Be quiet when going to bed and getting up, people may be making early starts so laying on you bed playing cards into the night may not win any friends. It is worth having a torch and packing before you go to bed so you can be off with the minimum fuss.
Smoking is not usually allowed in refuges.
If you are just using the dormitories and there are no cooking facilities then cook away from the refuge. Camping
Camping gives you the most flexibility and is the cheapest way of traveling but does mean you need to carry more weight since you'll need tent, food, stove etc. Typically if there are two or more, you should be able to camp with backpacks weighing about 12kg with no food or water. With a couple of litres of water and a day or two worth of food the maximum would be about 16kg.
There are organised campsites on the route and a couple of permitted wild camp sites with composting toilets.
Some of the refuges allow camping close by but check before pitching a tent. Officially wild camping is prohibited in most areas of the Tour du Mont Blanc although if you are discreet you should have no bother camping from dusk to dawn, but don't light fires and leave your camp site as you found it.
Equipment
The equipment list here should give you a good indication of what to take on the trip but obviously it comes down to personal preference.
Clothing Toiletries / Misc Misc Extras for Camping
3 * T-shirts Towel Map Stove
3 * Underwear Flannel Map Case Pot
3 * Walking Socks Wet Wipes Compass Sleeping Mat
Swimming Costume / Shorts Shower Gel Whistle Sleeping Bag
Walking Shorts Tooth Brush Survival Bag Tent
Long Walking Trousers Tooth Paste 1st Aid Kit Lighter
Flip Flops Sun Cream 1 Litre Water Bottle Mug
Walking Boots Toilet Paper 1 Litre Water Bladder Cutlery
Light Fleece Spare Laces Head Torch
Heavy Fleece Sewing Kit Spare Batteries
Water Proof Jacket Pen Knife Walking Poles
Water Proof Trousers Camera Dry Bag
Gloves Guide Book Rucksack
Woollen Hat Note pad
Sun Glasses Pen
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