转帖 TINTIN进来，我找到遥控打火装置的一个构想和设计图

Ｚ

制作过程如下： 都是英文，你就将就看吧～～～


Recently I added a remote start to my car.  All is good in theworld.  Unfortunately, I work at an airport and my car is about a 15minute shuttle ride from my office.  There is not much opportunity to’stand at the door and wait for warm car’ there.
But cruising the web, I happened upon the Viper website, where Iread about a new system where you can start your car via an iPhone fromvirtually anywhere.  After looking into the system, I soon stumbledonto the fact that the system is ridiculously expensive, as iseverything that has to do with the Goddamned iPhonenewer technology.  Further research on the subject yielded little hope,as all other systems were out of my budget (cheap as hell).
My co-worker and I started daydreaming on the subject (what goes onat an airport that we would need to pay attention?) When I stumbled onan idea.
Me remote start has a wire calledthe Remote Start Activation Input.  Now the job of the RSAI is, fromthe manual:  “This wire will start the vehicle when it sees twonegative pulses. Only used when incorporating into existing alarm or FOR TESTING PURPOSES.” That last part I capped and bolded, as that is what is most importantfor me.  “Testing” consists of simply grounding that wire for twopulses in order to start the car.  Two more pulses shuts it down,exactly like using the remote.
Bingo, I had my way in!  Here is what I came up with:

I know, I suck at diagrams...

I hope you can tell what is going on there.  If not, here is a synopsis, and a little bit of method behind my madness…
The remote start requires 2 pulses within 3? seconds to initiate theremote start sequence.  So how to send those 2 pulses?  Easy, I removethe vibrate motor from a cell phone or pager and use that circuit toinitiate the remote start by setting the phone to vibrate.  Butwait…the RSAI only works when put to ground, that circuit has (aftertesting) a 1.35v current. I guess I have to use a relay!  Oh no…Theremote start turns off after 2 MORE pulses.  How do I get the cellphone to STOP sending rings?  Hrm…
The answer came from beegbie over at the 12volt.com. The remote start start up sequence goes like this.  Sense Input>Turnon Accessories>Try to Crank Engine.  If I put a normally closedrelay on the vibrate circuit triggered by the vehicle accessorycircuit, then once the remote start sequence kicks off, any subsequentrings by the phone won’t be ‘heard’ by the remote start.
Whew!
Here are some pictures of the tear down and modification of the cell phone:

Kyocera Jax from Virgin Mobile

Purchased this phone for $10 from CVS Pharmacy along with $20 worthof prepaid minutes.  Phone came with a battery and wall wart charger.

Jax with the back cover removed.

With the inner bezel removed.

Removed the 6 tri-wing (fail) screws holding the inner bezel on. Once off, all the goodies are revealed.  You can remove the PCB fairlyeasily, but for the most part it is single sided.

All wired up.

Here I have already removed the vibrate motor and soldered wiredback into it’s place.  I wanted an easy way to remove the phone if Ineeded to make any modifications to it or add minutes, or hell, evenmake an emergency phone call.  I decided on desoldering the headphonejack from and isolating it with that paper stuff I got from anotherboard.  I glued the paper down, then glued the jack to it.  Then Isoldered the pins that correlate to the 2nd & 3rd pins on theheadphone jack to the wires coming off the vibrate motor resistors.  Ichose (had no choice) to solder the wires to the resistors due to metearing out the traces on the pcb when removing the motor.  I was alittle skittish applying the amount of heat required to remove thatbish, thinking I might desolder some of the tiny little componentsaround it.  Also of interest to some would be my choice of wire.  Thatis two strands from a IDE connector.  One is marked to denote it’spolarity.  (It helped, really.)

Headphone jack lookin stock.

Here is a picture of the headphone jack lookin’ all normal andstuff.  I like a nice clean install.  This way the phone loses only thefunctionality of vibrate and using a headset.  I can still set theringer, make calls, etc.

Picture of the homemade jack.

Here is the modified headphone jack for the hookup.  This is a 2.5mm(mini) headphone jack that I had from a cheap headset from anotherphone.  The wires were those damned coated wires, and quite puny atthat, so I cut apart the boot and desoldered them at the source.  Ithen removed 2 wires from a 10ft piece of cat5e and soldered them inplace, shrink wrapped and Bob’s yer uncle.  Why, you should ask, did Iuse Ethernet cable.  Several reasons:  It is sturdy, it was solid notstranded, I could pick my length and I have about 300 feet in a boxbehind me.
All in all I think the thing may actually work.  I need to sourcesome cheap solid state relays that initiate below 1.5 volts.  I am alsothinking about maybe using an optoisolator, as I have 2 in a scavengedpcb beside me that are in the correct voltage range.  I will still needa 30A auto fuse for the other relay, though.  I have a breadboard onorder from Spafkfun that should come in handy for testing.
The best part of this project are the possibilities.  Not only can Iremote start my car from afar, I can also use the other features of thephone to automate the remote start.  I can set up to 4 alarms on thisphone, and set them to vibrate.  Since I work 4×10 shift, that isperfect for starting my car everyday before work.  Also, that phone hasa timer on it that can also trigger the vibrate function.  Haven’tfiggered out a practical use for that yet.  But the Pièce de résistance isthe Calendar.  I can set nearly unlimited events into the calendar, andset an alarm to trigger the vibrate at or before the event in 15 minuteintervals.  I can also set the as ‘recurring events’, too. I couldprogram in mine and my wife’s work schedules, upcoming doctorsappointments, ANYTHING!  Not bad for a $10 phone.  I am glad that Idecided to make the phone easily connect/disconnectable.

Ｚ

It works!  Not to spoil the punchline, but yeah, all the tests so far have worked out.
I received my breadboard from SparkFunand started assemblage.  I used one of the two optoisolators I found inan old board I scavenged from- something.  The optoisolator seems to bea good fit, at least for testing.
The input voltage (datasheet)for the IL203 is 1.2v – 1.5v, which nails my averaging output of 1.35vperfectly.  However, I do have some concern about the long-termoperation of the optoisolator, as that voltage is rated at 20 mA and Imeasured the phone output peaking at just over 420 mA!  That kind ofcontinued current may damage the optoisolator in the long term, but asfar as I know that datasheet could be telling me how long to cook eggs,so you tell me?
Anyway, here is what I got hooked up and working:

All hooked up.

With that setup, I was able to kick off the vibrate on the phone bygoing to the menu and selecting the volume and get a nice tone out ofmy multimeter.  Further tests by calling my phone and setting the alarmrevealed that all of the vibrate functions on the phone resulted innice *fairly* steady, long pulses out of the vibrate circuit.  I tookthe setup outside and hooked the collector and emitter side of thetransistor up to the part of the remote start that I wanted grounded. Adjusting the volume twice (to make it ‘vibrate’ twice) resulted in theaccessories kicking on and my car starting right up.  I was even ableto repeat the process and shut my car back down!  (YES! *pumps fist*)
Here is a closer look at the whole setup so far:

Closer look at IL203.

Now the next part of the project was the part I was holding mybreath on… Making the phone not shut down the remote start withconsecutive pulses.  Again, a TON of thanks has to go to beegbie overat the 12volt.com for his suggestion for this part of the circuit.  Brother, it works like a CHARM!
The idea was that certain parts of the remote start circuit are onlyactive once the startup sequence is activated.  I chose to use theaccessory circuit as it would remain on and keep the remote start fromsensing any more inputs the entire time the car was running. (I am notworried, at this time, about being able to shut the car down since theremote start only runs for approx 15 minutes then shuts down on itsown.)  I achieved this by splicing into the collector side of thecircuit on the optoisolator (the vibrate output) and installing arelay.  This is your typical Bosch style automotive relay, and the ideawas to have it triggered by the Accessory output on the remote start toopen the circuit.  Besides the fact that I bought the wrong kind ofrelay (I bought a NO relay and I needed a NC relay, see how I modded it to be a NC in my other entry) and had to modify it, it worked PERFECTLY (YES! *pumps fist again*)
Here is a pic of the clusterfuck setup I had for that:

Circuit with shutoff relay.

With this all in place, a call to my car started it, and letting thephone continue to ring did not shut it off.  I killed the car at thispoint, and set an alarm on the phone for 5 minutes.  5 minutes later,VROOM!  Final test, I set an event on the calendar.  Later thatmorning, I was presented with the beautiful sounds of my broken exhaustspringing to life!  I’d call that a success, wouldn’t you.
The next step in this whole shebang is to put the whole packageinto, well, a nicer package.  I have ordered a board, matching projectbox, jumper wires and automotive relays  from Parts-Express, and some low-current relays from Digi-Key. These low current, solid-state relays should be able to handle thehigher mA current better than the opto-isolators, and might even lastlonger.  I will say that the operating temperature of the optoisolatorsis better than that of the relays, which is of concern being jammed ina car in KY, where the weather can be anywhere from 0°F to 105°F.  ThisI don’t get (the operating temps, not the weather…well, I don’t getthat either, but…) as the general operation of the opto and the solidstate relay are basically the same, except the opto has a transistor onit’s output side?  (This I don’t really get either?)
So to conclude Part 2 of this mod, I am eagerly awaiting my ordersfrom Digi-Key and Parts-Express (the coolest places have hyphens intheir names).  Hopefully soon I will have Part-3 up and have a nice little packaged unit.  In the mean time, look for mypost on how I modded a relay because I am too lazy to go drive aroundtown hunting for the correct one.

Ｚ

Well, I got my perf board in from Parts-Express, and of course I had to start assembling the final version of my remote start cell phone trigger, so here we go.


First things first, I screw up ALL the way through this project. From the first picture of the tools, to the final assembly where I havea loose wire, this whole thing was a cluster.  But what fun is it foryou to read about something that went perfectly?  It’s not.  So I’lltake you through the ups and downs and ins and outs of what I did, andhow I fixed it.  In the end, it all worked out.

First, the tools:

The tools...well, some of them.

These are the tools & parts.  In the picture are:  The ethercable headphone jack thing, solder, flux (I know, I know, the wrongkind of flux…), epoxy, project box/plate/screws, perf board, mixingstick, 2-pin connector, electrical connectors, relay, optoisolator,jewellers tweezers, helping hands, needlenose, soldering iron andscrewdriver.  Not listed is the relay jack/dongle thingy and the hobbyknife.
Ok, that was boring.  Next I took the opto and mounted on the perfboard.  At first I held it in place with tape while I soldered it, butthen I realized I was an idiot and I took the tape off and just bentthe 2 unused pins down.

Perf Board and Optoisolator

Held with tape (dumbass)

Pins bent and soldered.

Alright, not too bad.  Next I soldered on thejumper wires.  Easy enough, but wait…they don’t touch?  How to I getthe jumper wires to touch the copper on the hole over?  I’ll justsolder a trace! (NO, no you won’t.  This is forkin hard, and anyone whohas successfully done it, it usually looks like crap.)  I ended up justbending over the jumper wires so that they touched and soldered alltogether.  I think I will use this method all the time.  It was easy,and worked well.

Soldered up.

  I didn’t want all the wires soldered directly to the perf boardand sticking out of holes in the project box, so I scavenged some sweetlittle connectors that I would use to bridge between the box and ‘theoutside world’.  Here is my first attempt:

Something is wrong here...

Yeah…something is wrong here…  It looks good, nice solder job…  Ohdamnit!  This is the part that was gonna go on the OUSTIDE of theproject box!  Crap, now I have to desolder it and solder on the otherpart of the connector.

Other Connector Soldered Up

Yeah, there we go.  All ready to go.  Now I just have to, wait…this connector…the other connector… the box, click, outside, here,there… … … AUGH!  Sunnava*$@*!  This connector is what goes FROM thephone TO the other connector on the outside of the box!  Damnit!So right about now I went and got a glass of milk, sat in my chairand collected my thoughts.  I was getting a little rushed and ahead ofmyself, making silly mistakes.  “What is the next thing I had to do? After that?”  I took my time and planned the whole thing out, onelogical step at a time (or so I thought).Next, put the square connector into the outside of the project box, and solder wires to it from the board.  GO!

Lining it up to mark it. I just eyeballed it.

Marked with pencil and cut out with Xacto knife

There is another connector (you can see it in the first picture ofall the parts that everyone ignores) that I wanted to use to hook upthe heavier wires from the relay.  These wires aren’t gonna have a lotof current, they are just heavier cause the manufacturer thought they‘might’.

Marking the center line and the marks for the spade connectors.

I wanted tokeep these holes small- because… just because.  Idecided the best way to do this would be to burn them in withsomething.  But what?  The answer was right in front of me.

Burn it down!

That’s a spade connector on my soldering iron.  This worked exceptionally well.  probably not an original idea, but I like it.
Here are the connectors epoxied in place.

Terminal Connector

Little white connector thingy.

Aaaannnd, solder the wires to the pins/spades on the connectors.

Small Connector Wires

Larger Connector Wired

Next time around (I have to build some of these for friends), I’llprobably use A) Longer Wires,  B) More flexible wires  &  C) Solderthem BEFORE I epoxy the connectors in place.  It’s a little cramped inthere.Next thing, I attached and soldered the crimp type connections to the end of the relay socket wires.

Relay and Relay Socket

Relay Socket Connections

Now this picture highlights the next time I got into a hurry.  Theblue wire is the wire that will connect to ground (I know it should beblack, but I am too lazy to disassemble the socket and switch them). It should not have that round junk on it, rather it should have anextension and a male spade connector, as it needs to reach over to theground and span inline with the ground wire (you’ll see later).  Thered wire is correct, however I need to create a sister wire for it thatcomes out the other side of the screw terminal and connects to theRemote Start Accessory Input.  The black wire and the white wire arecorrect, as they are going to go inline with the current Accessoryoutput from the remote start.  Poo on putting a fuse on that, it wasn’toriginally fused, and doesn’t need a fuse cause it’s runnin through a30A relay.  I don’t care if you are an Electrical Engineer, I’m notgonna do it.

Wires Hooked Up Wrong

Yeah, the caption is right.  Remember I said that I needed to extendthe blue wire to ground and make another red wire to go out from thereto the Remote Start?  The Blue wire should not even be hooked upthere.  Straight from the relay to ground.

Relay in place.

Little White Connector Male End Soldered to Phone Output

White Connector In Place

Thenew spanning ground connection in place. This will span between theremote start ground connection and the ground wire. I soldered thestuffed connection on the left.

Shrink Wrapped

The whole ordeal soldered up correctly.

In the end it all worked out…AFTER I hooked it up and it didn’t work.
Turned out that the little white connector I used broke.  Why? Because I soldered the ethernet cable to the little tiny original wiresand they could not handle the strain, so I pulled it apart, spread thecrimp connector and soldered the ethernet directly to the pin.  Good. No…  The pins were female and I soldered the entire opening full ofsolder.  So not only did I screw that up, I destroyed the pins in theconnector attached to the box trying to jam them in.
So I rummaged some more, and managed to find an identical connector!  Yay.  This time I took my time and made sure I did everything correctly.  That connector turned out GREAT!
But it still didn’t work.  I checked for shorts, and found that oneof the spade connectors on the back of the screw terminals block wasn’tsoldered very well and broke off when I was soldering on the otherconnections.  Sooo, I melted the everliving Christ outta the project box resoldered the wire back into the hole in the spade connector, taking care to not contact the plastic with my soldering iron.
With that, the whole thing was together, and once installed in mycar, worked like a charm.  Since using it for about a week now, I havecome to the conclusion that I probably will not purchase more minuteswith the cellular provider, rather I will simply use the calendar onthe phone to set events for when I leave for work or leave work to gohome.  This is what I have been doing most of the time thus far.  Therehave been a few occasions where I used the call function, like when Ileft work early; but for the most part I leave at the same time everyday.  A recurring event on the calendar takes care of that just fine.
Cost breakdown.

• Remote Start – $35
• Phone – $10
• Minutes – $20
• Perf Board – $0.45
• Project Box – $2.10
• Relay Socket – $1.79
• Relay – $1.69
• Solder, tools, wire, optoisolator – $Free (Had or Scavenged)

Overall Cost of project:    $71.03
Well worth it if you ask me.

伶俜

还要打电话才行

那还要2手机

吃饱了撑得

Ｚ

还要打电话才行

那还要2手机

吃饱了撑得
伶俜 发表于 2010-2-19 09:38

    tin哥说他家那里太冷，想要在家把车打着热10分钟，再上车就不冷了～～～

如果不折腾，可以买现成的～～～

            
http://www.viper.com/smartstart/

Ｚ

到时候你家小白装好这个系统别忘了告诉我那个发动车的手机号，没事我就打过去骚扰一下，嘿嘿～ ...
sf_peng 发表于 2010-2-19 09:42

    小白没有电喷，还需要设计一个东西遥控控制油门才行～～否则打不着～

simon0930

弓虽口阿~ 高僧都是扫地的，神童都是捡球的~~~

tinitn在法国

谢啦兄弟！

够复杂，是个大工程！

Ｚ

谢啦兄弟！

够复杂，是个大工程！
tinitn在法国 发表于 2010-2-19 10:55

哈哈，成本是重要因素～～～～

其实也不是很复杂，比换离合简单多了～～～

tinitn在法国

哈哈，成本是重要因素～～～～

其实也不是很复杂，比换离合简单多了～～～ ...
Ｚ 发表于 2010-2-19 10:59

我有坏了的遥控车，一直想拿那个做。

tinitn在法国

主要是防盗那块是难点，别的都好说。

Ｚ

我有坏了的遥控车，一直想拿那个做。
tinitn在法国 发表于 2010-2-19 11:00

像007那样？


BMW 750iL - Tomorrow Never Dies
              
              'Q' delivered a lovely new BMW 750 to Bond and luckily had it fully               insured for all eventualities.            
Remote controlled from a cell phone, Bond spends a fair bit of               time out of the car during the car chase. Fully loaded with weapons,               Bond steers the car towards the roof..
              The last time it was seen flying off the multi-storey, car park               - straight into the 'Avis Rent-a-Car' showroom.                                 

ty414

我看了这个 倒想改成手机遥控炸*弹